Care and feeding of the pet tribble
by Myranya
Summary: Written before the 'tribble handbook', this is everything you need to know to keep, show, and perhaps even breed tribbles. Updated to fix formatting, sorry, no new content!
1. What is a tribble?

****CARE AND FEEDING OF THE PET TRIBBLE****

or

Much More Than You Ever Wanted To Know About Tribbles

by

Myranya

Special thanks to David Gerrold, for creating the most popular SciFi pet in the Federation, and of course to Gene Roddenberry, for creating the Star Trek Universe and making this all possible.

Disclaimer: I wrote this well before Terry J. Erdmann's 'The Tribble Handbook' came out, -it was published in 1998 and this was done somewhere around 1993-1994. I guess I should've sent it in to Paramount at the time, LOL!! But I didn't, and since Star Trek, the tribbles and everything else belongs to Paramount, I don't make money off this. Bummer! 

The latest update here is a major fix in formatting, which was really rather horrible. I've written several new stories and finally figured out how to upload a file and not lose half the formatting, so I'm slowly working my way through the older stories and fixing them. Sorry, no new content in this story!

CHAPTER ONE

WHAT IS A TRIBBLE?

Tribbles (Tribbeleus Pregnantum) are furry, almost round animals, ranging in size from less than 3 to more than 35 cm. They have no legs, but are nonetheless able to propel themselves at a very reasonable speed. They can and will eat almost anything a carbon-based life form can digest, and then some. They do not posses eyes, but have other, highly accurate, senses, some of which have not been fully explained as of this date.

The natural tribble is some shade of black, brown, or white, but through selective breeding the tribble now comes in almost any color.

Tribbles are hermaphrodites and begin reproduction before birth, if the parent has enough food reserves built up. They are also capable of heterosexual reproduction, which is important for variety and evolution in the species. As a matter of fact, a tribble will choose a partner if one is available.

A tribble can reproduce once every 12 hours, with an average litter of 10, when fed free choice on a high protein diet, but the tribbles kept commonly as pets are genetically altered and can not breed.

Non-breeding tribbles make good pets because they are clean and easy to keep. They are very friendly to almost all humanoids, and most other Federation members.

--*--


	2. Origin of the tribble

CHAPTER TWO

ORIGIN OF THE TRIBBLE

The tribble was first introduced into the Federation by Cyrano Jones, s.d. 4523.3, at Deep Space Station K-7. Its origin, however, remained unknown until s.d. 8104.6. 

The home world of the tribble is Cardegy II, a hostile planet which is mainly desert with little food and many predatory life forms. The tribble adapted well to the harsh circumstances; it needs little food for sustenance, and whenever food is available, as will happen after one of the rare rain storms, it reproduces at an incredible rate. Only the hardiest specimen are able to live until the next rain period. Natural selection has made the tribble a tough little creature that has few needs and is not susceptible to disease and injury.

As tough as the tribble is, and notwithstanding its reproductive ability, recent studies have revealed that the tribble has been threatened with extinction on its home planet more than once.

In recent years, the colonies on Cardegy II have usurped some of the desert areas, and climate control has rendered several wide spread areas more hospitable, but there are still large areas of desert where wild tribbles roam freely.

Close to the colonized areas the tribbles sometimes present a problem, since the presence of the colonists keeps many predators away. There is plenty to eat because of the climate control and the refuge of the colonists. The tribbles can form a real plague and several plans are being executed to limit their number.

Food and refuse is being sprayed with neo-ethylene, preventing them from breeding. (See also chapter 5 on the use of neo-ethylene in tribbles)

The Klingons have been able to genetically construct the glommer, a tribble predator that looks most like a ball on rather high legs. It eats tribbles whole, and works great against the rapidly multiplying wild tribbles. The Cardegy colony took over most of the breeding stock s.d. 42506.6.

In addition, Klingons are encouraged to move to the Cardegy colony. A tribble that can move around freely will not come near a Klingon, thus staying out of any of their residences.

Non-Klingon colonists are not always happy with this last method, claiming they get more tribbles because of their Klingon neighbors, but truth is that less tribbles range in neighborhoods with Klingons than in other areas, even if food and shelter circumstances would otherwise be more favorable to the tribbles.

--0--


	3. Anatomy of the tribble

CHAPTER THREE

ANATOMY OF THE TRIBBLE

The tribble has a thick, muscular skin, which is used to move not unlike a small, living tank. A tribble can also start itself rolling, and can even climb reasonably well by pulling itself up with folds of its skin. 

Directly underneath the skin is a sensory layer, with which the tribble feels, hears, smells, and detects waves much like sonar.

The mouth opening, located at the underside of the tribble, can expand greatly to take in large food particles. It ends in a 'multifunctional tube', which extends through the whole tribble and serves as an oesophagus, trachea, and birth canal. 

The stomach is a large digestive sack, in which almost anything can be completely digested and absorbed. In cast a tribble swallows something that can not be digested, it can be excreted through the multifunctional tube.

The liver, gall bladder, and the two digestive glands which are unique to the tribble and play a large role in its enormous digestive capabilities, empty right into the stomach.

Circulation takes place by the pumping of a blood-like substance through ducts to the walls of the various organs. Within the organ walls it flows freely, and the oxygen is released in an exchange involving a substance found only in tribbles, called Trey's fluid, after the Earth biologist who discovered it. Only in the lungs is there a similarity with the alveoli found in most higher oxygen breathing life forms. Its hart, though muscular, is small, as are all organs apart from stomach and uterus, taking a little of the available space as possible.

Half the tribble is uterus. Because of its relatively large size, the uterus is divided in smaller cavities. This facilitates transport of oxygen and nutrients to the embryos. 

Ripened eggs and sperm are released immediately into the uterus. In case of heterosexual fertilization, eggs and sperm of both tribbles are mixed in the process. Thus, some eggs will be fertilized by the other tribble's sperm, and some by its own. Still, a larger percentage of offspring will usually be the result of the crossing.

A tribble has no skeleton as we know it, but the skin is so thick and tough that it acts as an exoskeleton.

--*--


	4. Genetics of the tribble

CHAPTER FOUR

GENETICS OF THE TRIBBLE

Tribbles are hermaphrodites -both male and female in one individual. This means that, unlike an amoeba, which splits itself, producing an exact clone, fertilization does take place, and a limited gene pool is available. Still, tribbles will inter-breed whenever possible. 

The most important factor in selection and breeding of wild tribbles is reproductive capability, but in the tribble used as pet the size, color, and hair coat are valued higher.

The natural colors of the tribble range from black, brown, gray and white to almost yellow, in solid, spotted, and roan. However, through selective breeding and the more controversial genetic engineering, breeders have come up with tribbles of more exotic colors: green, blue, yellow, red and even leopard.

True white is dominant, then black, and roughly down to lighter and lighter with cream and light yellow being the most recessive natural colors in tribbles. Spotted is dominant over solid, roan is codominant, and leopard is recessive to all. 

Many colors will be codominant to some extend, so a black crossed with a natural red will produce some offspring with a more liver-color, or deep brown-red, rather than just pure black offspring.

Genes are identified for true white, black, brown, grey, red and cream, these are often called 'true' colors; liver, mouse-grey, dark red (bay) and infinite other shades are various combinations of 'true' colors, working together to produce that certain shade.

Natural colors tend to be dominant even over darker exotic colors. The exception is albino, which is naturally occurring, but is recessive to all other colors. The reason for this is that albino is not a real color, but rather an absence of color. Thus, as soon as any color does come into the picture, the tribble will not be an albino but instead show that color.

Albino tribbles are rare but can hardly be discerned from true white tribbles. An albino will throw no color when self-fertilization has taken place, while a true white will throw a variety of colors. With non-breeding tribbles it is only possible to tell by genetic testing.

It is of course possible to ascertain the exact genotype of any tribble in a well-equipped laboratory, but unless there is a special reason for it, like the breeding of a new color, the time and cost involved are not worth it.

The tribbles sold as pets are all genetically altered and do not breed. The exact process is too complicated to elaborate on at this time, but for those interested I would recommend "Reproduction and Genetics in Tribbles", by Drs. Prahyr & Taylor, Rigel IV, s.d. 25013.

--*--


	5. Tribble breeds

CHAPTER FIVE

TRIBBLE BREEDS

MINIATURE TRIBBLES

A tribble is a miniature when it is less than 5 cm when fully grown. Tribbles don't necessarily stop growing when mature; an underfed tribble can grow larger when fed adequately, even though it often won't reach its full potential.

Because in showing and selling miniatures the smallest specimen are the most desirable, some breeders will deliberately underfeed their tribbles. However, an experienced tribble-keeper can easily diagnose underfeeding by the loose skin, dull hair color, and in severe cases, lethargic behavior of the tribble. When deliberate underfeeding has been discovered it will lead to expulsion of all the offender's animals from the show and a warning from the UFPTSBA. Repeat offenders can be expelled from all shows and have their breeder's licence revoked. First-time buyers are recommended to take an expert along when purchasing a miniature.

Because miniatures are relatively rare, all but the largest shows will not split classes in color or hair length. All coats and colors occur in miniature tribbles.

REGULAR TRIBBLES

This is the tribble most people keep. They are between 5 and 25 cm. Because there are so many tribbles in this category they are divided into subgroups. 

A) Longhair tribbles. A tribble is called a longhair if it has fur of 2 1/2 cm or longer. The hair should stand up fluffy and not be tangled or matted. Spotted and leopard tribbles with long hair are extremely rare.

B) Roughhair tribbles. A roughhair tribble has hair of up to about 2 1/2 cm long. Most have many swirls in their coat. When groomed, the hair looks fluffy, when left alone it curls lightly in all directions. This is the natural hair coat of the tribble. 

C) Shorthair tribbles. Shorthair tribbles have a short, smooth hair coat which should lay down in one direction. They are the easiest tribble to groom and keep clean. Most spotted and leopard tribbles are shorthaired.

GIANT TRIBBLES

A giant tribble is over 25 cm. All colors and coats occur in giant tribbles, but due to the rarity of giant tribbles most shows will have one class, as with the miniatures. 

The giant tribbles should not be confused with the tribble colonies, which look like giant tribbles but are clusters of little tribbles.

A tribble colony is an incorrectly sterilized tribble which does not grow by itself, but instead multiplies and forms a colony with its offspring, appearing to be one giant specimen. The largest tribble colony observed till date was approximately 1m40 across, with a weight of over 230 kilograms.

A tribble colony will break down into its individual units when given a shot of neo-ethylene. The resulting individual specimen will be safe, non-breeding tribbles. 

Neo-ethylene can also be used to suppress the ability to breed in a tribble that has not been genetically altered, but as it wears off in time, it is not a reliable method for house-hold use. 

Breeders do not use it, as the first litter after a neo-ethylene treatment is usually small in number and the young tribbles are also less likely to be show material. It is used, however, to control tribbles in the wild.

CROSSBREEDING WITH TRIBBLES

Some breeders have tried cross-breeding tribbles with various other life forms, attempting primarily to come up with something that has the shape, size and disposition of a tribble, but breeds like the other life form.

This effort has met with some resistance, not in the least from those who fear they might end up with something the shape, size and disposition of the other life form, that breeds like a tribble!

So far, none of the attempts have been successful, since a tribble will not breed with any other life form voluntarily, and its self-fertilizing  mechanism is powerful enough to override any attempt at forced cross-fertilization, leaving absolutely no room for experiments.

--*--


	6. Care of the pet tribble

CHAPTER SIX

CARE OF THE PET TRIBBLE

GENERAL

Genetically altered tribbles make great pets. They are soft, gentle and relatively easy to care for. They are great for kids, but adults will also benefit from the calming influence a tribble appears to have on most humanoid life forms  (except, of course, on Klingons).

In their natural environment tribbles hardly live to the age of 3-5 years due to the many hazards, however, the life span of a domesticated tribble can extend to 20-30 years.

HOUSING

A tribble is curious and always looking for food. They are excellent escape artists, and should be kept in a securely locked cage. Tribbles won't run off when well cared for, but they will wreak havoc in the kitchen, and the kitchen of the neighbors, when allowed to roam free. They like warm places like beds and chairs, so risk being sat on when loose.

The cage should be kept clean and dry. A tribble uses grain and grain products with almost a 100% efficiency, so the cage rarely needs cleaning. However, if the tribble is fed other things, like table scraps and food with a high fat content, it will excrete waste products and the cage will need to be cleaned more often.

FEEDING

A tribble can digest anything a carbon-based life form can, and then some. They have an enormous appetite, being mostly a fur-covered digestive and reproductive system. To keep a tribble healthy, however, it should be fed on a low-energy grain, with raw vegetables as source for vitamins and for variety.

There are several good grain mixtures on the market, especially formulated for either breeding, non-breeding, and show tribbles. 

Supplements can be given to show tribbles to get the most out of their hair coat, or to give underfed tribbles a quick boost, but they are not necessary for a healthy, non-showing tribble.

A tribble fed on a high-energy, high-protein diet will become fat, sullen, and its coat will look dull. Therefore, non-breeding tribbles should not be fed the high yield feeds designed for breeding tribbles, nor should tribbles be fed too many table scraps and sweets.

A tribble does not need to drink when fed on mostly proteins and sugars, but especially when fed on fatty food, or anything high in salts, will need some water for the waste excretion process. Be sure a small container of fresh water is available in case the tribble wants it, but do not worry if the tribble does not appear to use any of it -a tribble will know when it needs the water and when it does not.

GROOMING AND HANDLING

A tribble likes attention. It loves to be petted, or to just sit on your desk. It likes most humanoids, but despises Klingons, since it is highly allergic to the pheromones a Klingon gives off when active or angry.

Tribbles are easy to handle and will purr when content. Even though their mouth opening is strong, a tribble has never been known to bite. It is possible a tribble might bite a Klingon, but there is no record of one holding a tribble long enough to find out.

Kids love tribbles because they are small, soft, and gentle. Younger kids must be taught to put the tribble back in its cage, so the parents won't find it in the food replicator. 

If a tribble accidentally gets pinched or otherwise is handled roughly, it will emit a high shriek, usually loud enough to make anyone let go.

A tribble likes to be brushed and its coat should be kept untangled, but because tribble hair grows slowly, they should be brushed gently and not too often.

Tribbles do not like water and should not normally be bathed. When thrown in water they will float, and can even propel themselves somewhat, but they will avoid water whenever possible. If it becomes necessary to wash a tribble, a sonic shower is preferable. If one is not available, the tribble should be dried with a soft, dry towel, or with a blow-drier.

TRICKS TO TEACH A TRIBBLE

Tribbles can be taught simple tricks by gently coaxing it in the desired direction and rewarding it with a small treat of high yield grain or a sweet.

They quickly learn to come when called, or to squeak at some things and purr at others. A tribble will also rapidly learn its way through a maze, or recognise certain sounds and smells.

--*--


	7. Diseases and treatment

CHAPTER SEVEN

DISEASES AND TREATMENT

Tribbles are not susceptible to many diseases, since they had to be extremely hardy to merely survive in their natural habitat. However, there are a few diseases and other problems that the tribble owner should be aware of.

SIGNS OF ILLNESS

You can tell a tribble is sick by its behavior. It will act slow, sullen, and even lethargic. Physical signs are a dull coat, loose skin, and a general 'sloppy' look.

If your tribble ever goes off its feed, call a vet immediately.

DISEASES OF THE SKIN AND COAT

Longhaired tribbles are more likely to have a skin or coat problem that shorthaired specimen, simply because there is more hair for the vermin to hide in.

If your tribble is loosing its hair, and its skin is slightly flaky, dandruff might be the cause. Dandruff is easily cured by washing the tribble in lukewarm water with a gentle anti-dandruff shampoo. Always use lukewarm water, and dry the tribble immediately.

Because the signs of dandruff are much like the first signs of summer itch, inexperienced tribble keepers should consult a vet.

Summer itch looks much like dandruff at the onset, but the flaking will soon become much more profound, and is usually limited to a few locations only. Washing the tribble will not help, but the vet can give a lotion to be rubbed on the flaky spots once a day until the flaking stops.

A tribble is not bothered by lice or fleas, but if other animals in the household are infested, the tribble will probably pick some up as well. Anti-flea products for cats are safe for use on tribbles, but dog products should not be used. Always treat all animals in the household at the same time, and treat their cages, sleeping places, and favorite hide-outs as well.

Regular ticks can not penetrate the muscular layer underneath the skin, but the Bahner ticks in the Zehnar sector, and particularly those on Deneb III, can. Remove with special tweezers as you would use to remove a tick from most life forms.

A tribble that is groomed too often will get bald spots, since tribble hair grows very slowly. Gentle grooming, with a large-toothed comb will work preventive in coat problems, but, as with everything, too much is never a good thing.

Never leave foreign objects entangled in your tribbles hair (like a burr or a Symenn-his-hair-tangled). They can be removed using coat conditioner or regular baby oil to slicken the hair and prevent it from being pulled out.

DISEASES OF THE RESPIRATORY SYSTEM

Tribbles can get a cold if they get wet and are not dried properly. They will not easily drown, but they hate water and it is definitely not good for them. They can be dried with a soft, dry towel, a blow dryer, or in a sonic shower. 

Tribbles are more susceptible to colds because their native planet is so dry and warm that a wet tribble in a draft has little natural defenses against this situation.

A cold is diagnosed by the tribble showing the general symptoms of disease, as well as a sniffing sound, which the tribble produces when foreign particles are excreted through the multifunctional canal.

You might also notice a coughing noise, which is produced when large amounts of air are being blown out of the multifunctional tube, and it closes with a pop. This is common when the tribble inhales dust or other foreign particles, and in and of itself not something to worry about, but if it persists for any length of time it could be a sign of a cold or even pneumonia.

A tribble with a cold should be kept warm, and given adequate food -which means a breeding tribble with a cold is often better sterilized unless particularly valuable. The tribble should be taken away from the other tribbles and kept in isolation until all signs of illness are gone.

If a cold is allowed to escalate, a tribble might catch pneumonia. Pneumonia in a tribble should always be treated by a veterinarian. The tribble must be isolated and given antibiotics. 

Tribbles can be allergic to some substances, but will usually know how to avoid them. This is why a tribble will avoid a Klingon at all cost; the tribble is allergic to the specific pheromones a Klingon excretes when he is either scared, highly active, or angry. Since Klingons don't like tribbles, they get angry when one is near, and will excrete plenty of such pheromones.

DISEASES OF THE DIGESTIVE TRACT

There are few things that are poisonous to a tribble, and the tribble will know how to avoid most of them. Those substances that have no smell or taste of course are more difficult to avoid, so the tribble should not have access to them. If poisoning is suspected, take the substance, residue, or container with you and take the tribble to the nearest vet office immediately.

All normal food substances carbon-based life forms can digest are safe for tribbles, but they can be slightly uncomfortable after eating large quantities of food high in fat. Take the fatty food away from the tribble and make sure it has some water to help in the process of excreting waste.

Over-eating is common in non-breeding tribbles. If it is just an incident, the tribble might appear somewhat uncomfortable, but no harm will come of it. A tribble that gets fed too much on a regular basis will get fat, become sluggish, and its coat will loose its lustre.

Loss of appetite is unusual and very serious. If a tribble ever refuses to eat, do not try to doctor it yourself, but call a vet immediately. The cause could be poison, or it might be a symptom of another, serious disease, like pneumonia.

DISEASES OF THE REPRODUCTIVE TRACT

There are not many diseases of the reproductive system in tribbles. One of the few things you might find in domestic tribbles is inflammation of the uterus. Inflammation of the uterus is most often caused by inducing abortion in a pregnant tribble. This can be done, but must always be followed up by a cure of antibiotics. When diagnosed in an early stage, inflammation of the uterus can be cured by a longer cure of antibiotics, but when further advanced the inner walls will all be affected and the tribble will have to be put down.

Spontaneous abortions are almost unheard of in tribbles, and if one ever occurs, it is a sure sign of a serious problem. Call a veterinarian immediately.

--*--


	8. Tribble shows

CHAPTER EIGHT

TRIBBLE SHOWS

All major tribble organizations within the Federation hold shows, where owners of tribbles compete for ribbons, awards, and even money.

Any healthy tribble is eligible for entrance in the shows, but the owner must be a member of one of the tribble organizations, and an NTBC (Non-Breeding Tribble Certificate) is required.

Breeding tribbles have their own shows, which is usually an excellent place to find a good, healthy tribble. Breeders will usually have several 'safe' tribbles with them as well, for showing requirements and for sale. At larger shows, there might even be an auction of breeding and non-breeding tribbles.

Most shows are divided in the following classes: 

-Miniatures, all colors, all coats.

-regular tribbles, short haired.

-regular tribbles, rough haired.

-regular tribbles, long haired.

-giant tribbles, all colors, all coats.

-natural colored tribbles.

-exotic colored tribbles.

-grand and reserve champion, chosen from the first and second places in each class.

A tribble can be entered in more than one class if the judging schedule permits. For example, a shorthair, blue regular can be entered in the regular, short haired, class as well as in the exotic colored class.

Tribbles are judged on general health, condition, size according to breed and age, brightness of color, and texture and condition of hair coat. Breeding tribbles are also judged on health, number, color and size of offspring. (Breeders should bring a recent litter along with the parent to compete in any class)

Any tribble association can provide information on local shows, dates, and specific requirements (if any).

--*--


	9. Laws and rules pertaining to tribbles

CHAPTER NINE

LAWS AND RULES PERTAINING TO TRIBBLES

1) It is against Federation law to keep a breeding tribble without a valid breeder's licence and a current membership in one of the tribble associations. 

2) Tribbles may not be sold, traded, or otherwise change owner without a Non-Breeding Tribble Certificate (NBTC). The NBTC should be complete, including some hair as a DNA sample. Breeding tribbles may only be sold to and by individuals with a valid breeder's licence and a current membership in one of the tribble associations. 

3) A non-breeding tribble, accompanied by an NTBC, may be transported within the Federation. However, some planets have their own local laws pertaining tribbles, and not all Captains allow tribbles aboard their vessels, so it is necessary to make inquiries before taking a tribble on a move or vacation. 

4) A breeding tribble is considered a potentially harmful life form, and the owner carries certain responsibilities as to the safety and prevention of escape. Licensed individuals are allowed to travel with a breeding tribble, but many ships and planets have their own laws and rules here, as well. 

5) Any breeding tribble must be kept in an enclosed environment conformed to a set of standards as to safety and prevention of escape. 

6) Tribbles are not susceptible to many diseases, but as any life form, they are possible carriers of such. Some planets require health certificates, tests, and/or quarantine, as do some ship's Captains. Here again, it is a good idea to check before taking your tribble along. 

7) It is forbidden for a Klingon to own a live tribble. The Humane Society has ruled it would be extremely stressful for the tribble. As it would also be rather stressful for the Klingon, many feel this regulation is superfluous. 

8) And of course under no circumstances should a live tribble be taken into the Klingon empire.

--*--


	10. Breeding license

CHAPTER TEN

BREEDING LICENSE

To be able to breed tribbles within the Federation, it is required to have a license and be a member of the United Federation Tribble Show and Breeder's Association, or one of the connected organizations.

To obtain a tribble breeder's license, it is required to pass a test. The test consists of two parts, a written test and a practical exam.

The written test includes the following topics:

                -Tribble breeds and colors.

                -Housing and care.

                -Diseases and treatment.

                -History of the tribble.

                -Laws and rules pertaining to tribbles, including local laws.

                -Theories of genetic engineering.

                -Genetics and cross-breeding.

                -Adjustment of feeding ratios for maintenance and breeding.

The practical exam includes the following:

                -Tribble feeding.

                -Tribble grooming and care.

                -Genetic alteration.

                -Recognition of breeds and colors.

Keep in mind that the number of tribble breeders is kept very limited due to the enormous fertility of the tribble.

--*--


	11. Breeding tribbles

CHAPTER ELEVEN

BREEDING TRIBBLES

The average breeding farm has about 50-75 breeding tribbles, most of which are kept on a carefully balanced ratio that maintains the tribble without discomfort but leaves not room for reproduction.

When a litter is desired, the breeder selects the tribbles he wants to breed and places them in a breeding cage.

An exact measurement of food is given, as the breeder usually will want to get a litter only from the selected tribbles, and not an immediate litter from the youngsters, as well. This is done by making sure the parent tribbles get exactly enough food for one litter, and one litter only. There will not be enough nutrients for the youngsters to be born pregnant, as is the case in tribbles when the parent animals have been fed free choice.

When fed too much, the youngsters will be pregnant, even if the litters will be small if the over-feeding was little. When fed too little, the two planned litters will be small, yielding smaller offspring which is rarely show quality.

After 10 hours, the tribbles are fed on a normal ratio again, another measure to assure no more than one litter is obtained.

After 12-14 hours the litter can be expected. The average litter is about 10 youngsters. The youngsters are immediately rendered safe by genetically altering, or selected for further breeding and put on a growth -but not breeding- ratio.

It takes much practice to balance the feed ratios in such a manner as to not starve the tribbles, or interfere with their growth, while staying low enough as to prevent reproduction. The margins might be as small as 2 mg. per tribble per day in miniatures.

Less experienced tribble breeders, afraid to over-feed their tribbles, often underfeed their breeding stock, but his leads to smaller tribbles with dull hair and shabby coats.

Once the youngsters which have not been selected for further breeding have been genetically altered, they are separated from the breeding stock and are fed more freely on a special growth mixture of grain. They are registered and given an NTBC. 

--*--


	12. Other uses for tribbles

CHAPTER TWELVE

OTHER USES FOR TRIBBLES

With their high reproduction rate, tribbles have great potential for various other purposes than just being pets. 

The tribble has been used in various cultures as a food and fur source, but with the wide-spread use of the replicator most Federation cultures have almost entirely done away with the usage of live animals for either. Also, the large number of breeding tribbles that would be kept on a fur or meat farm would create an enormous environmental hazard.

Tribbles have been used as test animals when poisoning was suspected. However, modern equipment can do the same task much better, for there are many substances which are poisonous to humanoids, yet harmless to tribbles.

Before the alliance between the Federation and the Klingon empire, tribbles were frequently used to sniff out spies. It was not unusual for Customs at a large starbase to have a tribble in addition to the sophisticated scanning systems. It is not unlikely that worlds outside the Federation, which have no treaty with the Klingons, do still use tribbles for this purpose.

Tribbles could, of course, be used as a weapon, when released in large numbers in an agricultural area. This is one of the reasons why the selection of breeders is strict, and why it is difficult to get a permit for transport of a breeding tribble. So far, the tribble has never been used in this manner.

--*--


	13. Helpfull addresses

CHAPTER THIRTEEN

HELPFULL ADDRESSES

This is a listing of some of the larger organizations within the Federation, and some that were especially helpful in creating this publication. It would not be possible to print a list of all tribble organizations in this book, but if no organization in your sector is listed, the UFPTSBA can direct you to organizations in your area. They also have limited information on tribble organizations outside the Federation.

  United Federation of Planets Tribble Show and Breeders' Association

  Code 679340-CKBF-346

  Sherman's Planet

  Bajoran Tribble Association

  Code 836124-TVLK-816

  Bajor

  Betazed Tribble Breeders

  Code 689082-TTOS-149

  Betazed

  Earth Tribble Breeders' Association

  Code 001434-DKQX-960

  Sol III

  Tribble Breeders of Rigel

  Code 743148-AXHP-1744

  Rigel IV

  Tribble Breeders Sector 18

  Code 118332-XBDL-0893

  Starbase 495

  Vulcan Tribble Breeders

  Code 020186-CARE-7351

  Vulcan

--*--


	14. Literature

CHAPTER FOURTEEN

LITERATURE

Beshar, Tonio. "Care and Feeding of the Pet Tribble", Magna III, 36405.1

Captain's log, USS Enterprise, Capt. James T. Kirk recording, USS Enterprise, 4523.2/8.4

Cashy, Wanda. "The Tribble in Art and Literature", Shehyvan, 32654.0

Eliah, Darvo. "Teaching Tricks to Small Pets", Taurus I, 39821.6

Gerrold, David. "The trouble with Tribbles", Sol III, 7305.4

Gerrold, David. "More Tribbles, More Troubles", Sol III, 7306.10

Heinstein, Theodore Hans von. "Breeding Color in Tribbles", Sparrjae IV, 25438.7

Prahyr, Dr. K. and Taylor, Dr. V. R. "Reproduction and Genetics in Tribbles", Rigel IV, 25013.6

Roelof, Dr. Wayne. "Diseases in Federation Pets", Sol III, 40004.7 

Tasis, Vynja. "Showing Your Tribble", leaflet, Starbase 66, 41031.8

--*--


	15. Tribble feed

KAE

TRIBBLE FEEDS

Kae Tribble Feeds has a variety of feeds for breeding, non-breeding and show tribbles.

KAE MAINTENANCE MIX is a good choice for non-breeding tribbles. It has a low percentage of protein while having all the vitamins and minerals your tribble needs.

Analysis:

Crude protein                                                  8%

Digestible protein                                           7.9%

Fat                                                           11%

Calcium                                                        3%

Phosphorus                                                   2.5%

Vit A.                                                 100000A.U.

KAE HIGH-YIELD PROTEIN MIX is the best choice for your breeding tribbles. With its extra high protein content, it gives large litters fast.

Analysis:

Crude protein                                                 16%

Digestible protein                                          15.8%

Fat                                                           13%

Calcium                                                        4%

Phosphorus                                                   3.5%

Vit A.                                                 100000A.U.

KAE BREEDER'S MAINTENANCE MIX is a mix extremely low in protein and high in vitamins and minerals, which helps breeders keep their tribbles in top condition even in between litters.

Analysis:

Crude protein                                                  4%

Digestible protein                                           3.7%

Fat                                                            8%

Calcium                                                      4.5%

Phosphorus                                                   3.5%

Vit A.                                                 150000A.U.

KAE SHOW MIX is a mix high in vitamins and minerals, especially created to give your tribble the best coat in any class or category.

Analysis:

Crude protein                                                  8%

Digestible protein                                           7.9%

Fat                                                            9%

Calcium                                                      4.3%

Phosphorus                                                     3%

Vit A.                                                 340000A.U.


	16. Tribble recipes

And for the Klingons among us...

Title: Tribble Rings in Sauce

Categories: Sf, Meats

Yield: 4 servings

     12    Tribbles

           Earth Garlic, crushed.

           NaSwuq oil

           Targ's blood

           TagWe' weed

           Salt

           Pepper

Cut the tribbles in thin slices. Due to the large womb in the tribble, you will get nice rings. Marinade the rings in NaSwuq oil with a generous amount of the garlic, for at least 4 Earth hours.   

Cook quick over high heat in frying pan.

Take out the rings, keep warm.

Add Targ's blood, TagWe' weed, more garlic, and salt and pepper to taste to the cooking juices. Stir over high heat until TagWe' weed turns color.

Serve with side dish of gagh.

--0--

Title: Tribbles in clay

Categories: Sf, Meats

Yield: 4 servings

     8    Tribbles

          Spices and seasonings to taste

          Clay

Clean out the tribbles, but instead of pulling off the fur, wrap in a thick layer of clay. Heat with any energy weapon, or in open fire, until clay is hardened. Peel off clay. The fur will stick to the clay and come off easily. Season to taste.

--0--

Title: Stuffed tribbles

Categories: Sf, Meats

Yield: 4 servings

    8    Tribbles

    4 lb Gagh or chopped targ meat

    4    Onions

         Klingon allspice

Clean out the tribbles and de-fur. Make several incisions around the 'mouth' opening on the underside of the tribble to make the tribble easier to stuff. Mix meat, spices, and chopped onion. Stuff tribbles with the mixture. Heat in hyperwave oven for 10-15 seconds or on open fire for 10-15 minutes.

--0--

Title: Tribble jerky

Categories: Sf, Meats, Snacks

Yield: 30 servings

    3    Tribbles

         Pepper

         Teryaki

         Qu'Siv

Clean and skin tribbles, slice in thick strips. Season with Qu'Siv, pepper, or Earth teriyaki sauce. Dry slowly in hyperwave oven.


End file.
